Wednesday, November 27, 2013

My Croatian experience, so far.

I feel like I am at home here, maybe because Deni and Tomo are amazing hosts, or maybe because the Split mentality seems so relaxed.. We have been here 4 nights, and I welcome a long stay in one place. Tomorrow we will board a "fast boat" to the island of Hvar, one of the 1000s of islands scattered along the Croatian coastline. This place is all the rage in the summer, fit with a night club that hosts interntational DJs.. A real party place for those who want a different scene while living it up in Split. I'm not sure what the vibe will be when we arrive, but I'm told by Deni and Tomo that renting a scooter to explore the island is a must. There is lots of untouched natural beauty and lots of history... My inability to ride a scooter with confidence must be thrown out the window, because from what I have seen on the internet, this place deserves a little tour.
(not my image, obviously... but this is what I have seen by googling Hvar. I'm hoping the sunny weather we are having today will last through Saturday!)

Paul and I have both been battling a head-cold now (not like I didn't see it coming.....) since our restless nights in Florence, so we have been taking it easy so we don't continue to battle it through all our cold destinations! We have been exploring the old town, walking around the shore, and doing normal day to day things like buying groceries and cooking good food. On Monday night, we tagged along with Deni to her yoga class. It was a big deal for me, since it was a different style of yoga (Zen yoga) and it was in Croatian. Talk about feeling akward! We made it through, though. It was a different breathing pattern, different warm up (like a mixture of sun salutation and tai chi?) and moved much more fluidly than what I am used to.. We even got to get into a hammock for inversions and svasana! We had a good time and definitely felt relaxed and a bit better afterward.

All this week the wind has started to pick up. It's a northly wind, much like our Nor'Easters, but they call it a Bora wind. Yesterday it was up to almost 30mph. Something in me thought it was a good idea to go for a run in the morning, and while I felt better afterward, it was a tough run! Luckily the trees in the Marjan forest were a nice shield, but when I headed back toward the apartment I thought I would never make it home I've seen a common theme with my runs, they are usually by some kind of water and very cold/windy. I'm not going to know what to do with myself when we hit hot, humid weather! This Florida girl has been hardened by the cold. I've heard it's been pretty similar weather there, as well.. Maybe there are some crazy solar flares going on or something making the whole globe windy and cold... Brrrr..

We walked down to the Split shopping mall yesterday in search of a beard trimmer for Paul, and it began to snow on us as we were walking! My first taste of snow... Too bad it was so windy, it looked pretty falling on the mountains. I just hunkered my head down and tried to make it to the mall as fast as possible. We didn't find a beard trimmer. He still needs one, badly. 

I had my first taste of authentic Croatian fish soup yesterday too, it was definitely a good day for soup. We went to this tiny family run restaurant that I read about on TripAdvisor. It had maybe 6 tables in it, and was one of the smallest restaurants I have been in.. I don't think it even had a bathroom? It was called Konoba Hvarnin, because the owner is from Hvar originally. It was definitely worth a visit, the food was so fresh and yummy. Paul had gnocchi and he says it was one of the best he's had. I love all the fresh ingredients you can get here, and Croatians are so proud of their food. It's nice visiting places tht have a huge food culture.. It's something we should really try in the States. I think it would solve a lot of our problems.

Croatians usually have a small breakfast, and then a big lunch usually later in the day, like between 2 and 4. Then they may have a small dinner later, or just have appetizer type stuff like bread, salad, cheese, olives, and martinated small fish or cold cuts. I must say it has been nice having smaller dinners. It would be hard to implement this way of eating back home, I think... People would have a big lunch (of food that probably isn't as fresh or nutritious as here) and then doze off because they are so full.. Not good for prouctivity. I will say, despite all the oils, olives, bread, cheese, etc. I have not seen an overweight Croatian yet. Maybe it is a Split thing, since they have had more Olympic athletes represented than any other city in Croatia.. Hmmm...

Today we will be heading up Marjan Hill to get some fresh air (the wind has died down, thankfully) and enjoy nature. Marjan Hill has a lot of history, from what I have read. Back in WW2 when the Nazis invaded Yugoslavia, they infiltrated Split, marched up the hill to the stronghold, removed the flag and replaced it with the Nazi flag. Split was a huge win for the Nazis because of the natural barricades of the mountains and fact that it is a port city.. Thankfully the swastika didn't stay there long, and until the Balkan War, Marjan hill didn't see much other action. It is a forest that is highly reserved by the people of Split and protected by the government. It's so pretty, too. I haven't been up the trails yet, just on the main road, but Tomo tells me that you could walk around the different trails all day long. Pictures to come!

Later Deni and I will be going to a second hand store, to buy a coat that I will probably leave in Turkey since I won't need it much afterward.. Ahead on the itinerary includes REALLY cold places like Budapest, Vienna, maybe Munich, and then Prague...so a real coat is necessary. I am getting tired of wearing 6 layers of clothing, like the kid in A Christmas Story. So I figured, instead of buying an expensive coat, I'll just find a thrift shop.. Don't worry, I won't take your Grandpa's style.

Also, I miiight go back to that yoga class tonight too, to get a second taste. I think I may have the hang of it now. Tomorrow, to Hvar! Woo!


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